Dried oregano, chocolate, cherry pit aromatics. Nice sweetness in mouth, with fine acid/tannin structure. Suave, chocolate/cherry mid-palate. Very well-put together, harmonious wine. This should age beautifully for several more years.
$36 approx. Great value.
Light red. Underbrush, vibrant cran/raspberry, orange and mint nose. Leanish in the mouth, but flavors ride thru mid-palate. Very light touch, not fat at all. Minerally red-fruit acid-driven finish, nice length. Needs time to flesh out/unwind.
Pale – platinum color. Very well-integrated, mellow oak, white peach/citrus nose and a N. Rhone waxy character. Understated, but very impressive follow-through in mid palate and very long. Surprising density with a tactile character in the mouth that really cuts through the sl sweet/creamy palate. This was tasted barely chilled (60F).
There are few New World Viogniers that can match the precision and lightness of touch here (though Kunin and Calera come to mind), particularly in view of the length/concentration of this wine. 2004 was apparently (Tanzer/Parker) a fantastic vintage for Condrieu. No argument.
Appropriate that this blog should start with Chateauneuf. I have a decent stash of both wines back to ’98 and am reasonably knowledgeable about their different styles, although I think these are evolving, much as most other producers are these days.
The Pegau ’01 was marked by a dry herb/garrigue character that was a bit too aggressive for me initially (day 1, not decanted). Days 2 and 3 brought more integrated garrigue and sumptuous/confectionary kirsch/framboise notes. Obviously concentrated/packed wine that is finished in a style I now consider rustic, particularly compared with Clos des Papes.
Clos des Papes ’04 is right off the bottling line, no doubt. Showing very well from day 1 – pure, Burgundian-like fruit and fat. Not as complex, yet, as the Pegau, but many years younger. Garrigue shows as a nuance amid waves of pure, measured fruit. The more I drink Clos d P the more I want to buy and drink more. But this sentiment really true only from 2000 on.
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